recommended skill level for this guide intermediate
your step by step guide
Reducing the spinning friction caused by the grease in your wheel bearings is quite possibly the most effective single legal improvement you can make to your blokart® chassis. You are now only 15 simple steps from reducing the friction blokart® sailing can often cause.
– remove wheel nut
remove nut “A” from end of stub axle
to do this you will need to hold your stub axle by clipping it into your blokart® using the spaces that came with it
NOT by using your main axles
or you can use custom blokart® tool #96… kidding, I made this one out of a couple of bits of aluminium and a seat post clamp off an old bmx bike.
it can even be done in the comfort of your lounge / dungeon / XA Falcon, like this. That’s stage 1 done… easy aye?
– remove stub axle
pull out the stub axle and washer. That’s stage 2 done… even easier! Pace yourself though, if you get this done too quick you might have time to mow the lawns after all!
- remove the first bearing
for this you will need custom blokart® tool #3.11 from windows xp service pack 6…. I use this inexpensive yet superb quality screwdriver I bought from with all of the comprehensive range of screwdriver bits removed…. come on, they let us use their car park!
angle the screwdriver to catch the inside race of the bottom bearing and gently tap the bearing out. A little care is required as to not damage the bearing by excessive sideways force.
- remove the other bearing
to avoid the risk mentioned above I use this piece of bent aluminium which is bent roughly to the same diameter of the outer bearing race.
use your handy hammer multi-tool (my multi tool can smash your multi-tool) to tap this bearing out.
- remove one dust cap from each bearing
you may need to ask a grownup to help you with this one. If you are the grownup, start talking in a deep voice and act all serious while you find a really really sharp thing (I use my handy hammer multi-tool) to gently pick out the dust cap from ONE SIDE ONLY of each bearing.
put the dust caps you remove in a safe place in case you somehow damage the ones you left in. Perhaps you could fashion your spouse some cher new bling, in exchange for B.B.P. (blokart® brownie points) which you may exchange for B.A.T. (blokart® away time) at a later stage and/or wind strength.
- getting ready to clean
a toothbrush works pretty well for this next stage so this is an opportune time to head for the bathroom. Grab the stiffest one you can find (which isn’t your own of course)
- still getting ready
if you don’t have a large industrial, high volume compressor in your blokart® bag to blow all the grease out, you can dissolve it with some petrol or diesel. Diesel is the nicer to use as it doesn’t dry everything out as much as petrol, but if your neighbour doesn’t drive a diesel then petrol is fine.
- cleaning out the old grease
I use an old tin lid to stop the petrol melting the polyurethane on the coffee table. Burning cigarettes or naked flames positioned near by will quickly ignite any spillages before signs of damage from melting occurs.
dip the toothbrush in the gas and start scrubbing, re-dip then re-scrub. Its a bit like brushing teeth only without the head.
keep repeating till all the grease is gone. Spin the bearing in your hand, if it feels like a ratchet block then you haven’t finished.
when you’ve got it clean, grab a rag or paper towel and wipe dry.
check the dust cap you left in is still in place and wipe dry.
- the relube
turn the bearing back over and give it a soaking with “secret blokart® performance enhancing runny stuff in a can”. I NOX gunner tell you what its called but you can get it from Super Cheap. I haven’t looked but it might also be available from No problem if they don’t stock it… we can still use their car park.
- refitting the first bearing
press the first bearing into the rim keeping the seal to the OUTSIDE like this.
NOT LIKE THIS, I SAID OUTSIDE. How well would that keep dust out of the bearing?
a socket with the same outer diameter as the bearing makes a good punch to press the bearing down to its seat. Be careful to ensure the bearing stays perfectly flat on the way in, If it starts going in on an angle you may damage the rim.
before fitting the second bearing, remember to put the spacer tube in. That’s the bit of stainless tube that fall on the floor earlier that you weren’t quite sure where it came from.
- re-fitting the second bearing
turn the wheel over and repeat step 10
another descent dousing of the good stuff always seems right about now
- re-installing the stub axle
time again to use your inexpensive yet superb quality screwdriver you also bought from
with all of the comprehensive range of screwdriver bits removed to line up the spacer tube ready for stub axle to be inserted. That screwdriver is proving itself to be very handy addition to your tool kit / utility belt)
slide the stub axle AND WASHER into position
final touching of the nuts
refasten “A” nut on the stub axle. Notice how the valve stem is now on the opposite side than the nut compared to how it was in the first photo of step 1. This puts the valve stem on the inside of the wheel, lessening the risk of valve stem extraction during close passing manoeuvres.
you can use custom blokart® tool #69 which is the upside down version of custom blokart® tool #96 used in step 1 to tighten “A” loose nut.
or you can mirror the photo from step 1 to hold the stub axle however you may need to do this while looking in a mirror to avoid lateral confusion….. possibly…. I think!
THE IMPORTANT BIT… do the nut up until its just tight and then un-do it 1/4 of a turn. This will allow the axle to move in and out very slightly and remove any final trace of dreaded friction.
- the clean up
wipe up any excess anything that is seeping out of anywhere
the toothbrush can now be returned to its original location if its still marginally cleaner than its owners teeth.
if not ditch it somewhere and deny everything.
get out there and discover just how much this lesson to lessen friction has improved your pace.